Protect Plants From Winter Burn

Above everything else, watering your plants, even in winter is the best way to prevent winter damage. There is nothing worse than a dry freeze on your plants. Guarding against winter burn on foliage can be prevented by keeping your plants hydrated even in winter.

Winter burn injury is leaf damage that is caused by cold winds which dry out the leaves of evergreens. There are products available which can reduce this injury when used properly. They are in a group of chemicals known as anti-desiccants or anti-transpirants. One we particularly like is WILT PRUF®. These products create a barrier over the pores (stomates) in the leaves which allow the plant to breath but reduces water loss through transpiration (like us sweating). Anti-desiccants can also be used when transplanting trees and shrubs and for prolonging the freshness of live foliage decorations like Christmas trees and wreathes. 

Winter burn injury can take place whenever the soil freezes and wintery winds blow drawing moisture from leaves. Plant roots can't take up water from frozen soil to replace the losses experienced in the leaves. The longer these conditions exist, the more moisture is lost and death of leaf tissue results. Plants that hold their leaves (evergreens) over the winter are vulnerable, broadleaf types are more susceptible than the needle type evergreens due to the larger surface area of their leaves. The most common months for this to occur in Oklahoma are January and February. One late fall application is not enough. Generally these products are applied to the foliage as a liquid, do not apply if temperatures are predicted to drop below freezing for 24 hours after the application. The second application is usually more difficult because it must be done within this temperature range to be effective. As always, read and follow the exact directions on the label for the particular product you have purchased.

List of plants susceptible to winter burn

• Southern Magnolia

• Rhododendron

• Azaleas

• Cherry Laurel

• Mountain Laurel

• Japanese Pieris

• Aucuba

• Ivy

• Leucothoe

  List of plants susceptible but to lesser degree

• Hollies

• Boxwood

• Heavenly Bamboo

• Forsythia

• Pines

• Spruces

• Cedars

Remember: Transplanting reduces the existing root mass as it is impossible usually to get the entire root system in tact when moving.  The smaller root system reduces the plants' ability to supply sufficient water to the above ground portion of the plant in the new location.  Applying an anti-transpirant before transplanting will allow the smaller root system to supply enough water until root re-growth is achieved without damage or loss to top growth.  Subsequent re-application may be necessary to allow enough time for re-growth. 

Quick Tip: 

Anti-desiccants will prolong freshness of Christmas trees, wreaths, roping and all 'greens' brought indoors for decorative purposes.  For best results water the plants intended to be used for cuttings a few days prior to removing foliage, then apply the product and wait a few days before taking cuttings.