Questions About Roses? We Have The Answers!

We have compiled the most commonly asked questions we get on roses. Of course, we have provided the answers to those questions! We hope these questions and answers will help you when and if you are having problems with your roses.

Q.  Why won't my roses bloom?

A. It could be as simple as your roses aren't getting enough sun. They absolutely have to have at least 6-8 hours of sun to produce blooms and perform well.  Other reasons could be they have been allowed to dry out and are suffering from stress, or have been fertilized improperly. A high nitrogen fertilizer will give you lots of green growth, but not many blooms. Just a note...don't expect too awfully many blooms in the first year you plant your roses. Give them time to get established!

Q. How much sun do my roses need?

A. Well, actually we discussed this in the above question...but here it is again. They HAVE to have at least 6-8 hours of sun to perform well. Keep in mind...this much sun will probably mean they will require lots of watering in periods of drought.

Q. Will my roses do ok if I plant them in the shade?

A. Ok...you plant a rose because of it's beautiful bloom, right? Well...if you put them in the shade they aren't going to bloom and probably will be more likely to suffer from disease. There are a few roses that claim they are shade tolerant, however I would be very skeptical, especially with our hot, humid summers. None the less, some of these 'shade tolerant' varieties are: Hybrid Musks, Zehhrine Drouhin & some of the Rugosa Roses.

Q. How much water does my rose need?

A. Sorry...can't answer that one. Actually, it all depends on good ol' Mother Nature. We can tell you that roses do not like to dry out, nor do they particularly like wet feet. Also, keep a good 2-3 inches of mulch around your roses to hold that moisture in. It also will help keep weeds at bay. Bottom line...keep them moist but not wet. Summer months may require watering 2-3 times a week, especially on new plantings. Always pull back the mulch and feel the soil before you water. When watering always water from the bottom and NEVER water the foliage. That is a good way to invite disease. The only time we would even think about suggesting wetting the foliage is if the plant is wilted and under stress. The watering of the leaves will help cool it off and hopefully reduce stress (if only that would work for us). Infrequent, deep watering is much better than frequent, light watering.

Q. What is meant by deadheading my rose?

A. Deadheading simply means cutting off the old flowers. No use in the rose bush using energy for an old, used up bloom. Cutting off (deadheading) old blooms will also encourage new blooms to form. There are many opinions on how to do this deadheading, like never cut below a leaf with 4 leaves, or always cut above the fifth to seventh leaf under the bloom, and on and on.  We just like to keep it simple...Using sharp and clean (very important) pruners, cut the bloom and stem down enough so you don't see it.  Of course, just use good judgment.  You wouldn't want to cut down so far as to cut off buds that are getting ready to bloom. No rocket science here.

Q. Why should I prune my rose?

A. Three reasons...

• Encourages the plant to grow in a desired shape.

• Keeps the plant healthy, by removing old or diseased canes.

• Encourages blooming.

Q. How and when do I prune my roses?

A. The best time to prune is before new growth appears in the spring, sometime after the last killing frost. Fall pruning is necessary only when plants are extremely tall, to prevent wind damage during the winter. When pruning, a 2–inch pruning shear gives the best results. Make sure you get clean cuts, and that your shears are sharp. Remember to properly clean your pruners prior as well as after use. See our Rose Brochure for more information.

Q. How do I protect my roses in winter?

A. Two basic things...keep them hydrated and keep the base covered with a 6-12 inch layer of mulch. The worst thing that can happen to your rose is if it gets a dry freeze. If you have a unusually dry winter it is a good idea to occasionally water the rose when the temperatures rise above freezing. If you have branches that have grown extremely long and weak, it is ok to prune them back to prevent breaking, splitting or damage to the cane.

Q. How do I fertilize my rose?

A. There are lots of good rose fertilizers out there. Just follow manufacturers recommendations and make sure the fertilizer you choose is for blooming plants, in particular roses. Timing is important. Fertilize when your rose is in full leaf, then again after the first or second series of blooms. Don't fertilize in the fall...this will just encourage new growth that could be damaged by an early frost. As a good rule of thumb, we suggest not fertilizing after about September 15th.

Q. My rose has black and yellow spots on it, what is wrong?

A. One word...well maybe two. Blackspot! This is a common fungal disease that affects roses, particularly with our wet springs, followed by our humid, dry summers. Blackspot won't typically kill your rose, but it can defoliate your rose quite rapidly if not treated. With no foliage, you get no blooms! Be careful when watering, the splashing of the water can actually spread the blackspot spores and make the problem worse. Just lay your hose at the base of the plant to water, and DO NOT spray the foliage. What do you do if you have blackspot?

• Clean all of the fallen leaves out of your rose bed immediately! Pick all of the affected leaves off of the rosebush and dispose of them in the trash. DO NOT put them in your compost pile.

• If you have to use pruners to trim some of the affected leaves, wash your pruners in a mild bleach solution after each cut. And remember...wash the pruners very well before putting away.

• Spray your rose with a FUNGICIDE. Make sure you are getting a fungicide. An insecticide or miticide won't work. However, there are a few new products on the market that are an all three in one. Insecticide, miticide and fungicide. If your blackspot is very advanced we suggest using simply a fungicide for best results. Keep in mind that several treatments may be necessary, and it may take several weeks before you actually see new growth.

• Keep in mind...a weak or stressed plant is more susceptible to disease. Make sure you inspect your roses frequently for signs of disease or insect damage.

Q. There is a white powdery substance on my roses, what is it?

A. What you have is powdery mildew. Also a common fungal disease of roses. The leaves may also become distorted before crumbling and falling off. Warm days, and cool nights are a breeding ground for powdery mildew. Spray with a fungicide. Take a good look at your roses. If they are very full with not much room for air to move through them, you will need to thin them out to prevent powdery mildew from forming again. One of the top causes of powdery mildew is lack of air movement.

Q. Are there other pests and diseases that may affect my roses?

A. Unfortunately, there are a few others we need to talk about.

• Thrips: These are microscopic insects that will actually eat the rose bud from the inside out. If you notice your buds turning brown and never opening, chances are you have thrips. Spray with a insecticide rated for roses, making sure you spray the buds thoroughly.

• Spider Mites: Another very small (almost microscopic) insect that can wreak havoc on roses. Your leaves will turn yellow before drying up and falling off. You may also see tiny webs forming on the branches. Spray with a miticide, making sure you get coverage on top as well as under the leaves.

• Aphids: Not as common as thrips or spider mites, but can be a problem. Aphids actually suck the chlorophyll out of the plant making it weak. For a mild case of aphids a good hosing off will work, for a more severe case, a good rose insecticide can usually solve this problem.

Q. Is there any way to avoid these diseases and pests?

A. Actually, there is. We have always suggested that you get on a regular spraying routine if you intend to raise roses in Northeastern Oklahoma. Our weather is just a breeding ground for many of the disease and insect problems we have. That meant you had to spray fungicide for diseases, insecticide for the insects and miticide for the spider mites. Then, of course, you had to fertilize! Bayer has a new product that we have been very impressed with. It is called Bayer All-In-One Rose & Flower Care. It is a systemic that is a fungicide, insecticide and a miticide. It also contains a fertilizer! All your problems solved! Just one thing to remember: It is a systemic so it will take a little longer to work. If you already have problems it is advisable to go ahead and use a foliar spray for quicker results.